For those of you who’ve ever idealized life in the (latin american) tropics, might I offer a few highlights of my week as a reminder that paradise is a matter of perspective? Oh, and a heads up to those of you with weak stomachs:
1. Walking through our hood on our way to buy bananas, Estella and I heard the rumble of a diesel truck accompanied by the distinct sound of liquid being sprayed from a high-pressure hose. Just then (to my disgust, though not to my surprise), a “mosquito truck” rounded the corner and headed straight for us. We crossed to the opposite side of the road, covered our mouths and noses and watched in silent (spring) horror as the driver drenched dozens of laughing loungers, grateful for a moment’s relief from the heat as if it were 1960. We headed home, closed all doors and windows and prayed to the gods of neurotransmission while the (DDT?) truck emptied its tank on our neighborhood like a backyard mister.
2. The mosquitos following that spray were totally non-existent for about 24 hours and then the craziest thing happened. Desperately thirsty, neurologically-disturbed mutant mosquitos emerged from who-knows-where to suck whatever moisture they could from the compost and toilet bowls while the toxins took their toll. That night, even more came out of the concrete, moving with uncharacteristically spastic and clumsy flight and attacked us through our bedsheets ruthlessly, unlike any mosquitos I’ve ever experienced (and I grew up in Wisconsin where mosquitos compete with robins for the state bird). If my whole family turns up with a rare dengue/cancer combo, you’ll know why.
3. You don’t even want to know the size of the ticks we just found inside our dog’s ear.
4. It’s campaign season, which means that politicians plaster enormous posters of themselves all over town, then drive around in trucks with blown out speakers bungeed to the top while screaming promises of a better tomorrow barely audible over Gangnum Style (an attempt to increase young voter turn-out?).
5. The rainy season has begun, meaning that the air is now heavy with all the heady smells of a Mexican summer: savory grilled meats, giant tropical flowers, rotting mango, dog shit and week-old garbage.
6. Speaking of garbage, our trash bin (top of page) has apparently been pegged as public, as only one black bag in that stinky mess came from us.
7. The ants have moved in again following their winter retreat. At any given time, there are at least four different two-lane highways through the house, the empty-mandible lanes moving markedly mas rapido than the ones with wide loads. Some work the compost bowl, others are clearly addicted to sugar, a third group prefers almonds but will settle for pecans in a pinch and another still would probably claim pescatarianism if the trash pail pickins weren’t so darn delicious.
8. Our electric bill was 9000 pesos this month (I don’t even want to know what the exchange rate is right now), cementing our suspicion (following the fair in the fall and now the one in April) that the street vendors have been “borrowing” our electricity.
9. Because we had not received a bill (they slip the loose piece of paper under our gate at random) and you can’t actually pay for your services without said paper in hand, our electricity was cut off this week (which means, of course, we were also without water).
10. After hours-long negotiations at the bank to actually access that kind of money, and upon paying royally for that carnie auctioneer to scream into his mic every night for a week (again, through blown out speakers), Hunter was assured our power would be reconnected by 2:00 pm yesterday. What they really meant, however, was “We’re going to give you a time because you, as a gringo, are accustomed to being given definitives, and I, as a Mexican public service worker who deals with bureaucratic bullshit every day am accustomed to making promises that mean absolutely nothing. Oh, and make that 2:00 Friday. If you’re lucky.”
11. Not a local in town would actually be surprised by the fact that — because I am married to a brilliantly resourceful, uninhibited man who also deals with Mexican bureaucracy on a daily basis — Hunter found some random electrician on a moped and paid him 100 pesos to come over and reconnect the power, because that’s just what you do here.
12. And last, but not least (Heidi, don’t watch this) this is what tropical summer looks like inside a two-day-old bag of trash. If you think “baby flies” it’s a little less gross?
[youtube]http://youtu.be/-xoOrHr7Ais?t=3s[/youtube]
Happy summer everyone! Here’s to cultivating paradise within!
Thanks for keepin’ it real, Beth!
The video says it’s private, Beth! I want to see the gross video!
darn, really!!?? working on that now!
okay, try again and let me know if that worked! 😉
I remember the “mosquito truck” from growing up in Houston!
I’d say you have it just about exactly right! Required reading for anyone who visits once and decides to start packing to move south…
Hi Beth,
Thank you for these insights, among so many of your wise offerings! I’ve really been enjoying your writing and sharing. So I’m sorry to write in for the first (second?) time with a critique…
Use of the word “rape” in a way that does not actually mean rape. Which I think is a really important distinction to make because of the actual-rape cultures that we live in and that are horribly violent and problematic. Let’s not minimize it?
Thank you!
LB
You are right, Leah. I appreciate you calling me on my insensitivity. I changed the wording and will be more careful about tossing around concepts that are clearly no joking matter. Best, Beth
I feel sick to my stomach jut remembering that video.
I forgot that I already showed it to you. 😉
Hi Beth, I’m reading your blog from a bit of time and I really like your writing: you are so honest, funny and sensitive!
Cheers from Italy!
Jealousy officially neutralized. Thank you SO MUCH for scraping off the sugar coating.
Adah- I remember the mosquito truck from growing up in Houston, too! It would come at nightfall when I was already in bed. More recently I experienced it in Mexico, where I rushed to close all the doors and windows while my babies slept. Ugh.
I am such a wuss. The grey clouds outside my window look beautiful right about now. Thank you!
Thanks for the REALITY! I like your choice of words, allows a smile despite gross and sad facts :o)
I´d like to scrape some sugar off the image of undoubtedly cooler and cleaner Germany – when it gets warmer, the trash looks just the same after few days. And if we aren´t watching it to be closed tightly the crows will spread the mess all over the place…
This post was a great reminder to appreciate -and see paradise in- the place I am.
Whenever I feel shitty, I read your website and it makes me feel better. So thank you. Also, I’ve lived in the tropics briefly here and there, and I find myself fantasizing about going back once in a while, but then recently I wondered, “Was I really THAT happy there? Weren’t there annoying things?” And I thought about it really hard, and then I remembered the mosquito bites and having to hitchhike to the grocery store. Although overall I still think it’s a better deal, but thanks for easing the pain of jealousy a little bit. I also was surprised, because by reading the title of this article, I was like, “Whoah.. it’s gonna be a pessimistic post, i’ve never seen her do that.” But then it didn’t really feel like a list of complaints at all. Nowhere is perfect, and that’s so important to remember, otherwise I feel like I’m living in a cage with some perfect world outside. So, yes, we must cultivate paradise within 🙂
I laughed out loud at your description of the ants! The mosquito trucks but the electricity being turned off too.
Have experienced all of it in “magical San Miguel”. Add to that the siege of scorpions and assorted other episodes. But, you have to admit it does add to the adventure and the truthful statement that no two days are alike! I too, have flagged down anybody who could figure out how to reconnect the elec meter. To this day, four years later no one has ever shown up from the electric company to reconnect it. Thank goodness someone clued me in to find my own guy!
Enjoy your writing greatly…….
Hola Beth – greetings from Ajijic, Jalisco, where I have been living with my husband for the past seven years! I love your blog and we have so much of the same things going on here that I just had to write and say “thanks”!
I have a blog too you might enjoy checking out – it’s much more “gringolandia” here at Lake Chapala but some things (like dealing with CFE) are the same everywhere!
anyway stop by….http://jilliansandrock.com
Thanks again!
Jillian
Interestingly, lots of this is quite similar to living in New Orleans. 🙂 We have the mosquito trucks too.
Great post! Loved the insight into daily (not so pretty) life there and the reminder that every place can be both paradise and hell – it’s all perspective. 🙂
9000 pesos for even two months is unheard of. I would find that electrician again and have him block whatever access point the street vendors are using. Like your Blog
baby flies! haha!
Really appreciate your honesty and so enjoy your writing. I’m thrilled to have found you! Thank you!
Reading this made me think of a film called “Life & Debt” which begins with lines from Jamaica Kincaid’s “A Small Place.” Weaves deeply these threads and explores much history of the “developing” nations and the reality of paradise.
I highly recommend both!
Thank you again!
Sheila